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Wire Tech
WHAT SIZE OF WIRE DO I USE?
WIRE, CURRENT, VOLTAGE, LENGTH, RESISTANCE - EXPLAINED
 
Quick Reference:
This table shows the amount of current flow which will cause a 1/2 volt drop in a 15 foot run of cable. Many people consider 1/2 volt to be the maximum acceptable voltage loss in a power wire.
 
WIRE GAUGE CURRENT FLOW
0 AWG 330 AMPS
1 AWG 262 AMPS
2 AWG 208 AMPS
3 AWG 165 AMPS
4 AWG 131 AMPS
5 AWG 104 AMPS
6 AWG 82 AMPS
7 AWG 65 AMPS
8 AWG 52 AMPS
9 AWG 41 AMPS
10 AWG 33 AMPS
11 AWG 26 AMPS
12 AWG 21 AMPS
13 AWG 16 AMPS
14 AWG 13 AMPS
WIRE GAUGE RECOMMENDED MAX FUSE SIZE
00 AWG 400 AMPS
0 AWG 325 AMPS
1 AWG 250 AMPS
2 AWG 200 AMPS
4 AWG 125 AMPS
6 AWG 80 AMPS
8 AWG 50 AMPS
10 AWG 30 AMPS
12 AWG 20 AMPS
14 AWG 15 AMPS
16 AWG 7.5 AMPS

These are the recommeded minimum fuse ratings for a the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe. Using a larger fuse than recommended could cuase an unsafe condition, and should NOT be attempted!

Wire:
As you already know, wire comes in many different styles and sizes. I will touch on a few design parameters that you must consider when choosing wire. The most important consideration is the amount of current that will be carried by the wire. The wire's size is indicated by gauge. The most common wire sizes used range between 4awg and 22awg. The larger the awg (American Wire Gauge) number, the smaller the wire size.

Resistance:
Now you need to realize that all wire has resistance. This is the reason that wire has current limitations. If you remember the formulas from P=I^2*R. The power dissipated in wire will be in the form of heat.

For Those Who Refuse to Fuse:
Now let's see what will happen if excess current is passed through a small conductor. We will assume that some imaginary piece of wire (we don't want to destroy a real piece of wire) has .01 ohms of resistance (e.g. a 15 foot long piece of 8 gauge wire) and that wire is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery (without a fuse... that should scare you). Now let's say that the other end of the wire is allowed to touch to the chassis of the vehicle (which, in most vehicles, is connected to the negative terminal of the battery). The two battery terminals are basically shorted together by the wire (through the chassis). In this situation, a very large amount of current will flow through the piece of wire.

If we wanted to calculate the current flow through the wire, we would use the Ohm's law formula I=E/R. If we use the ideal automotive battery, which is rated at 12 volts, and divide it by the resistance of the wire which is approximately .01 ohms, we get a current of 1200 amps.

I = E/R
I = 12/0.01
I = 1200 amps

Then plug the current into the formula P=I^2*R. We get:

P = I2*R
P = (1200*1200)*0.01
P = 14,400 Watts

This shows that the wire would dissipate 14,400 watts of heat which would melt the wire's insulation and more than likely ignite everything that comes in contact with the wire (fuel lines, other wires, carpet, plastic, insulation). In comparison, the largest burner on your electric stove will not put out that much heat on high!

Note:
We could have simply used the formula P = E2/R but many of you are new to this stuff so I went the 'scenic route'. To prove that it comes out to the same value:

P = E2/R
P = 122/.01
P = 14,400 Watts

Safety:
Any time that a tap is made off of a power source (battery, fuse block, distribution block...), you MUST put a fuse inline as close to the source as possible. Another thing to keep in mind is that you must insert a fuse inline anytime that the wire size is reduced, such as a tap off of the main power wire for an amplifier, CB, fog light... The fuse must be rated to open (blow) well before the wire starts to overheat. A secondary but very important consideration is environment. Is the temperature going to be extreme, hot or cold? Is there anything like oil, grease or solvents that will come in contact with the wire's insulation? All of these things have to be considered to keep you, your vehicle, and anyone else around you safe.
Oxygen Free Copper Wire:
As you have probably noticed, wire designated as OFC wire usually has a clear insulation and the wire is bright and shiny underneath the transparent insulator. Well... It is nice and shiny for a while but after a short time (actually from the time it is drawn), it starts to oxidize (unless the wire is kept in an oxygen free atmosphere). When copper oxidizes, it becomes a less effective conductor. This means that, in time, the wire's current carrying capabilities will become significantly reduced. The problem is made worse by having many very small conductors. This creates even more surface area which makes the oxidation process even more efficient. In my opinion, if you are designing a system of any type for long term use, I think the better choice is a 'tinned' copper wire. In this type of wire, the copper is plated with tin (maybe a lead/tin alloy) or similar conductor which will not oxidize as quickly and never as completely as the bare copper. As a side note, this has nothing to do with the copper being 'oxygen free'. It has everything to do with the fact that the wire is unprotected (untinned) and is finely stranded. I used OFC wire in this example because most OFC has many fine unprotected strands.
TECH TIP

Wire Connections and Resistance:
Whenever making connections, make sure that they are tight. If you're making crimp connections, try to pull the wire out of the connector. If you can pull the wire out of the connector, it wasn't crimped good enough. If you are inserting the wire into a terminal block, tighten the screw down tight. If there is a bad connection and a sufficient amount of current flow through the junction (wire to terminal block), the block will heat up and possibly do irreparable damage to the terminal block or the printed circuit board.
Wire Insulation Types
Definitions:

PVC:
PVC is short for PolyVinyl Chloride. Different formulations make the material soft and suitable for wire insulation or hard and suitable for water and drain pipe.

Thermoplastic:
A thermoplastic is a plastic that can be softened by heat which allows it to be easily formed. Different types of thermoplastics are PVC, Polyethylene and Polypropylene.

Latex:
A light colored fluid produced by various plants and used to make latex rubber products.

Common Wire Designations:

The following designations will help you understand the properties of thhn and other wire types. Keep in mind that these are general properties. There will be exceptions to these rules. Before you use any wire in a critical situation, consult the datasheet from the wire's manufacturer.

T Thermoplastic insulator (generally PVC)
H
  • Dry location - household/building wire (generally the first 'H' if there are 2 Hs)
  • High temperature (second H if there are 2 Hs)
N Nylon outer insulator (protects against abrasion)
S
  • Silicone rubber (if used at beginning of designation) Generally used in high temp applications.
  • Switchboard wire (if used at end of designation)
B Braided
W Wet locations
R Rubber (non specific)
RU Latex rubber
A Asbestos
F Fixture Wiring


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